2 1/2 days in Edinburgh
Edinburgh is a small city of about 530,000 people, and the capital of Scotland. It is a beautiful seaside town that truly provides the character and history of ancient European cities. The cobble stone streets have been maintained in much of the city, and each area has a distinct architectural style. Old town is distinctly medieval while Georgian and neo-classical buildings dominate new town. The modern blends with the old well, and neither overwhelms the city.
For wanderers who want to experience the culture and get a feel for what life is like, two or three days is the perfect amount of time. There is plenty to do and lots of neighborhoods to explore for any kind of adventurer. Whether you’re traveling with friends, a partner or as a family, there are exciting things for all to enjoy.
How to get there
In a country like the UK where everything is connected by rail, you may plan to see as much of the country as possible in a relatively short amount of time. If you aren’t traveling directly to Edinburgh from overseas, this will likely be your best way to get to Edinburgh. From London, several trains can get you there, the ScotRail, and the Caledonian Sleeper being the primary options. The latter is how we chose to travel to Scotland after arriving in London. Traveling with budget in mind, we were looking for ways to save on travel on accommodations. The sleeper train afforded a day of exploration in London, as well as transportation and accommodations that evening for about $300. Click below to read a little more about our experience on the sleeper train.
Checkout our article on the Caledonian Sleeper here
We arrived in Edinburgh via ScotRail into Waverley station from Glasgow which is about an hour long train ride. As usual, we needed somewhere to store our bags for the afternoon before check-in. We found some luggage lockers there, locked up our valuables and went to find some lunch.
Pro Tip: Go to the bus terminal in Waverley if you’re having trouble finding locker space. We couldn’t find any near the trains but there was plenty of space near the busses.
How to get around in Edinburgh
Edinburgh is a great walking city, but there is a network of buses and a tram that are convenient too. All public transit can be accessed with a credit card or ApplePay. Just hop on and tap your card. Using your card, the system will remember you and limit charges after a threshold has been met for the day. Make sure to figure out what the limit is at the time of your trip.
The tram system is a single line and runs from the airport, through Leith to the waterfront. It touches all the major areas, and provides convenient access to others nearby. The Lothian Company runs the bus system and is more comprehensive in coverage across the city. Google maps is great companion to provide accurate directions for how to use transit options effectively. If walking around isn’t your thing, or you aren’t able, buses are your best bet.
What to do in Edinburgh
Explore New Town
New town and old town divide the main part of the city. New Town is known for shopping, dining and nightlife. Rose Street is a car-free street of restaurants and bars where you’ll surely find a vibe you’re looking for. Checkout Never Really Here for an incredible speakeasy experience, or Meze-Meze for some amazing greek food.
Walk through Dean Village
From Stockbridge you will find the Water of Leith Walkway, which will lead you through Dean Village. On a Sunday, you may also find the Stockbridge Market in Jubilee Gardens. The market is home to local artisans farmers, and food vendors and is a great stop for a snack or a gift to bring home. A restaurant called Ma Roberts had a stall when we visited, serving authentic Tanzanian food. I had a moment of desperation walking by and the chicken thighs and rice she was serving that day gave me life. I digress…
Dean village is small area of Edinburgh and formerly home to nearly a dozen grain mills. For nearly 800 years it was a center for grain milling before the industry moved to Leith. Once serving as a symbol of industry in Edinburgh, Dean village is now quaint and residential, but the buildings and roads have been maintained to keep their traditional feel.
Harry Potter fans often make the walk through the area and claim the atmosphere reminds them of the books. Edinburgh provided a lot of inspiration to Rowling in writing the books, so it’s possible that the village also provided direct inspiration (although never stated publicly).
Old Town
Admittedly, this part of Edinburgh will likely be the the most tourist heavy, perhaps rivaled by Rose street depending on time of day. The area is quite picturesque, dominated by cobblestone streets and medieval architecture. Old town is the cultural center of Edinburgh. Here you’ll find the Museum of Edinburgh, National Library of Scotland, and Victoria Street. Victoria street is a UNESCO world heritage site and the inspiration for Diagonalley in Harry Potter. It is also home to a restaurant called Oink that roasts a pig everyday, and serves some of the best pork you’ll have in your life. Its a small hole-in-the wall place, perfect for a find-a-bench lunch or pick-me-up to get you through the afternoon.
Royal Mile and Edinburgh Castle
We did not actually go in to the castle for a tour, but you can find entrance information on their website here. We’re not much for museums generally; but we do like to spend time walking around these parts of cities. In Edinburgh, the Royal Mile is the main route of streets through old town and leads up to the castle. Shops hocking tartans and family crests, some very talented bagpipe street performers, and plenty of restaurants and bars will capture your attention as you take the stroll towards your goal.
I recommend coming to Old Town without too much of a plan. Walk around, enjoy the sights, and keep a few of your must-see items in mind. Mostly just wander and take in the town. Eating snacks along the way is going to serve you better than sitting down for a full meal, but don’t forget to pop into a coffee shop or a pup to refuel. There are also mobile food stalls (not quite food trucks) around that are great for a quick break.
The Scotch Whisky Experience in Edinburgh
Scotch is a major export of Scotland and is a source of pride for the people of the country. As the most imported whisky in the world, you would expect it to be a big part of the culture. There are many tourist attractions based around the drink, but The Scotch Whisky Experience is more ‘official’ than the others. In 1987, nineteen whisky companies collaborated to create the experience. It now houses the largest collection of Scotch in the world, totaling over 3000 bottles.
The Tour and tasting
The experience begins with a video in a small theater narrated by a guide and teaches you about the history of the drink. You’ll then have an opportunity to taste two whiskies, a blend or Islay single malt. The guide will teach you about how to taste and what to look for in scotch from different regions. A glencairn glass is provided as a souvenir and to participate in the tasting. You’ll also have a chance to walk through the exhibit hall with thousands of old bottles, some brands you’ll recognize, others you will not.
There is an optional add-on which is a more expansive tasting of the regions and occurs after the general portion of the tour. Most of the experience occurs in dark rooms meant to provide the atmosphere of aging warehouses and distilleries while this happens in a sun-lit room with a great view of Edinburgh. You’ll be given a tasting sheet, but this portion is pretty much entirely self guided.
The tasting options they give you are definitely not top-shelf. If you’re a connoisseur with expensive taste, you maybe underwhelmed. If you fit that category, there is a whisky bar and restaurant in the basement with an overwhelming collection across all price points. We were in the mood for a little extra so we indulged.
